What Are AHAs?

Alpha hydroxy acids are a class of chemical exfoliants that remove dead skin cells on the surface of the skin without being too harsh, making them an ideal ingredient for almost any skin type. 

Overall, alpha hydroxy acids offer plenty of benefits for the skin and can be found to help plenty of skin problems. These include uneven skin tone, rough texture, and dullness. AHAs have also been proven to be helpful in treating acne.

If you’re looking to treat any of those skin concerns, then you’re in the right place. Read on to find out all about how alpha hydroxy acids work, who they benefit, and why they’re considered one of the best ways to get bright, clear skin.

What is AHA for skin?

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are the go-to chemical exfoliant for many skin problems. They remove dead skin, stimulate the production of collagen, and are generally suited for all skin types including sensitive skin. If you’re looking to get rid of any of the following problems, then AHAs might be right for you!

• Fine lines and surface wrinkles
• Enlarged pores
• Rough skin texture
• Acne-prone skin or mild acne
• Facial skin irritation

Benefits of AHAs

AHAs have beneficial effects on both the outer layer of the skin as well as the deep layer (dermis). Still, their main benefit is surface exfoliation, a.k.a. shedding of the outer layer of the skin to produce new skin cells with more even pigmentation and smoother skin texture.

AHAs also help stimulate collagen production, making it ideal for those looking to reduce the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles. AHAs work through both increasing the collagen synthesis of fibroblasts (the collagen-secreting cells of the skin) and decreasing the degradation of the existing dermal matrix. Peer-reviewed studies have also shown that AHAs can reduce visible signs of sun damage. However, it is not a substitute for sun protection.

Will an alpha hydroxy acid peel remove dead skin cells?

Yes, most types of AHAs — glycolic acid, lactic acid, and other acids — are able to remove dead skin. However, the bulk of the work usually happens in the outer layer of the skin or the epidermis, even though AHAs also show significant effects in the epidermis. This makes AHAs better for repairing aging or sun-damaged skin cells over treating acne-prone skin.

What are examples of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)?

Alpha hydroxy acids come in different forms, all of which are able to significantly exfoliate the skin. However, the effects can vary depending on the type of alpha-hydroxy acid and the user’s skin type. Some examples of AHAs are:

• Glycolic acid
• Lactic acid
• Citric acid
• Mandelic acid
• Malic acid
• Tartaric acid

What are the benefits of glycolic acid?

The most common alpha hydroxy acid is glycolic acid. It’s derived from a fairly stock source, which is sugar cane. Glycolic acid is an ideal treatment for most of the skin conditions mentioned above, and it’s shown to be effective even in lower concentrations. 

Glycolic acid works by weakening the lipids that bind dead skin cells on the surface of the skin, thus easily removing them. This results in the shedding of dead cells on the outer layer of the skin. What makes it stand out is its antimicrobial properties, which is why you might find it in acne products.

Glycolic acid is also found in many skincare products. Apart from glycolic acid peels, this alpha hydroxy acid can be spotted in moisturizers, facial cleansers, in chemical peels combined with other alpha hydroxy acids, or in serums combined with hyaluronic acid.

What are the benefits of lactic acid?

Glycolic and lactic acids are probably the most researched among the AHAs. Whereas glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane, lactic acid is usually derived from milk or vegan-friendly sources like corn starch, beets, and other sugary foods. It is widely considered the safest for sensitive and dry skin. It’s widely used for anti-aging abilities and significant exfoliation.

Citric acid and malic acid are derived from citrus fruits and also work by removing dead cells on the skin’s surface.

How do I choose between AHA and BHA?

When you want to exfoliate your skin just under the surface, you should be using an AHA. If you’re having cystic acne or just general acne, you’re going to want to use a beta hydroxy acid (salicylic acid). Salicylic acid is widely used to treat pimples as it can dive deep within the skin and remove dirt and acne-causing bacteria.

AHA and BHA are both strong exfoliants that have a peeling effect and can dry out the skin if overused. An AHA/BHA combination could work depending on the strength of your skin, and they can even be used as a less-intrusive alternative to laser resurfacing. 

How do I combine AHAs and BHAs?

Many skincare products use AHA and BHA together, but such placement of two strong exfoliants can cause discomfort. It’s often recommended to buy a moisturizer along with a good combination of BHA and AHA if you want to start incorporating chemical peels into your regular skincare routine. 

Bottom line: if your complexion needs some extra TLC you could do very well with a combo of alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids. However, it’s important to note that you need to build skin tolerance before making them a daily part of your skincare routine. Depending on your skin’s sensitivity, you can start with once-a-week applications, then increase it every two weeks if you see satisfactory results.

Side effects of over-exfoliating include skin rash, irritation, burns, and bumps.

Final Note

In short, AHAs are great for removing wrinkles, fine lines, and other symptoms of sun damage, as well as brightening dull skin. They may also be effective for treating mild acne, although BHAs are the final word on that skin concern.

Just remember to start it slow and steady if you’re a first-timer: start with once a week application, then gradually move on to twice a week if your skin looks better.

For more tips and beauty hacks, take a look at our blogs here at Pretty Me.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is AHA bad for skin?

Generally, AHAs are not bad for the skin and are much safer than manual exfoliation. Often, manual exfoliation manages to scrub off surface dirt and debris but can scratch the skin and damage it in the long run. Glycolic acid is even shown to have anti-inflammatory properties.

Despite this, an inappropriately high AHA concentration on human skin can lead to the aforementioned side effects, such as irritation, burning, and even bumps. Such misuses of AHAs include daily application without building skin tolerance, using AHAs without sunscreen, and combining it with other skincare ingredients that can further strip or dehydrate the skin.

Joey Baldonado

Joey is an AB Psychology graduate of the University of St. La Salle – Bacolod. Her life’s passions include writing, film, and spending hours on end binge-watching fashion vloggers on Youtube.