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Can Isotretinoin Change Your Skin Type?
When it comes to acne treatment, there’s a controversial drug that everyone either loves or hates: isotretinoin. It’s no exaggeration: ask anyone who has undergone treatment, and their reactions are going to be wildly different. Some people swear by it, others say the process — which typically includes severe dryness, peeling fatigue, and depression — isn’t worth it.
But there’s a reason isotretinoin is so popular. Apart from clearing severe acne in just 4-6 months, it can apparently change one’s skin type to resemble the microbiome of a person who isn’t acne-prone. Keep reading to find out how.
What is Isotretinoin?
Isotretinoin is a class of retinoids, which are vitamin A derivatives that help with a long list of common skin problems, most notably wrinkles, fine lines, and acne. Retinoids can be topical or oral, and isotretinoin is one of the more widely-prescribed oral classes of medications.
With this success rate also comes a long line of side effects and a negative online reputation. We’ll talk more about that later, but at the end of the day, the numbers don’t lie: 85% of acne-prone patients who use isotretinoin to treat their acne report clear skin by the 16-week mark. So how exactly does it work?
Does Isotretinoin (Accutane) Get Rid of Acne?
There are plenty of ways to manage acne-prone skin. A consistent anti-acne regimen is one of them; this typically includes popular acne spot treatments like benzoyl peroxide. For mild cases, a good routine is often enough to see significant improvements.
Dermatologists often prescribe isotretinoin for those who aren’t seeing any progress after the first line of defense. Dermatologist Dr. Mona Gohara, Yale School of Medicine associate clinical professor, tells Cosmopolitan:
“Accutane, aka isotretinoin, shrinks the glands in your skin that produce oils. When you shrink those glands, your organs — including your eyes — will be drier, but this side effect usually goes away after you finish your dose.”
But because it shrinks your glands, your skin is also forced to produce less oil, thereby stopping acne-forming bacteria in its tracks.
How is Isotretinoin Different from Other Anti-Acne Drugs?
Doctors will typically prescribe antibiotics first. These meds target acne-causing bacteria, which is the main culprit of many severe acne cases.
Isotretinoin is not an antibiotic. It doesn’t target or kill or fight off bacteria in your skin. Instead, it shrinks the skin’s oil glands and creates an environment that isn’t hospitable to the sneaky pimple-causing bacteria.
Benefits
The main benefit of isotretinoin is almost permanent freedom from acne. Because the drug reduces the size of your oil glands, it actually stops acne from recurring on a massive, severe scale. As many as 70% of isotretinoin users have been permanently acne-free after taking the medication.
How Long Does Isotretinoin Take Effect?
Isotretinoin typically works over the course of 4 to 6 months, sometimes longer. However, people will see results as soon as three days to one week of use.
This will largely depend on the dosage prescribed, and there’s no one-size-fits-all route, so don’t compare your progress with others.
Isotretinoin and its Side Effects
Isotretinoin has a long list of side effects that go beyond physical symptoms. They include:
- Severe dryness around lips, nose, and/or eyes
- Peeling
- Redness
- Irritation
- Scabbing
- Headaches
- Fatigue or loss of energy
- Back pains and muscle or joint aches
- Birth defects
While challenging, these side effects can be alleviated with the help of a gentle, bare-bones skincare routine.
For those with existing medical conditions, such as a blood disorder, depression, or gastrointestinal problems, the side effects may be even more severe. According to the NHS, people with blood disorders who take isotretinoin may feel extra dizzy, become more prone to infections, or get unexplained bruising. Those suffering from depression may feel exaggerated mood swings, aggression, and irritability.
Additionally, doctors will not prescribe the drug to pregnant and breastfeeding women due to potential birth defects.
While rare, it’s super important to talk to your doctor if any of these sounds like what you’re going through on isotretinoin.
How Isotretinoin Changes Your Skin
We’ve mentioned earlier that isotretinoin works a little differently than your regular over-the-counter acne medication. This is because it mainly affects your skin’s microbiome, shrinking your oil glands in order to put a stop to excessive oil production. This is how the drug transforms people’s skin over time from acne-prone and oily to normal.
Another wonderful benefit of isotretinoin is that it makes it hard for acne-causing bacteria to thrive. The presence of Cutibacterium acnes is common in greasy areas of the skin and the effects of isotretinoin on the skin’s geography make it harder for them to wreak havoc.
Does Isotretinoin Work Forever?
The best part about isotretinoin is it’s supposed to be a permanent cure for acne. Of course, even those who had a successful run with it will still get the occasional pimple because we’re all human and there are days when we can’t be 100% on top of our skin.
“Accutane permanently shrinks your oil glands so they can’t be stimulated as easily anymore,” Dr. Mona Gohara adds.
Final Note
For those who have never dealt with chronic acne, the condition may not seem like a big deal. But the thing is when you have it, and you have it bad, even the smallest social interactions can seem debilitating. There’s still a stigma surrounding chronic acne, whether we like it or not, and complicated treatment doesn’t make it any better.
Of course, no other person can make the choice for you. But if you’re at your wit’s end with acne treatment, and you’re not quite sure about isotretinoin, it’s at least worth talking to your doctor about. Because while there are dozens of horror stories that people post online, there are many more success stories that we never hear about.
So, keep in mind that the choice is yours, but don’t let fear stop you from taking medically proven steps to take care of your skin.
Got any isotretinoin-related experiences of your own? Are you currently in treatment? Share your stories with us below!
Joey is an AB Psychology graduate of the University of St. La Salle – Bacolod. Her life’s passions include writing, film, and spending hours on end binge-watching fashion vloggers on Youtube.